13/09/2017. Sending "Silence", the 24-year-old La Sportiva ambassador Adam Ondra established the worldâs hardest sport climb. After this impressive achievement, we caught up with Adam to learn what it took to send the first 9c. Five years ago, a 19-year-old Adam Ondra did the world's first 9b+ by Change in Flatanger, Norway.Some received upgrades (even to 5.15 by Adam Ondra, in one case) when they did. One notable 5.15 route got much quicker repeats and plummeted multiple letter grades in the process.
So far, Adam committed an 9c , three 9b + and 19 9b routes. 13 of the previously mentioned 9b routes has been given to Adam Ondra for the first time. On the ranks two, three and four follow Chris Sharma (eight 9b routes), Alexander Megos, Jakob Schubert and Dani Andrada, each with three 9b routes. Video about Adam Ondra's trip to Canada
Take all their advice with a grain of salt, though. They are the best in the world and training exactly as they train is likely too much for us mere mortals. Video: Training Day of Adam Ondra; Video: Climb Like Chris Sharma: His Tips, Part 1; Alex Puccio on Training, Bodyweight and Crowdfunding; Alex Megosâ Single Best Training TipHis one-hand peak finger force (measured on a 20mm hold) is approximately 110% of his body weight. Anything over 100% of body weight is elite finger strength, but the highest readings measured (that Iâm aware of) are in the range of 130% to 140%.
Pitch 19 (5.13c). Photo: Heinz Zak. On November 21, 2016, after an eight-day push, 23-year-old Czech climber Adam Ondra topped out the 32-pitch Dawn Wall (VI 5.14d) on Yosemiteâs El Capitan, a line many consider the hardest free big wall on the planet. With eight pitches of 5.14 and 12 pitches of 5.13, the route garnered mainstream-media
Go in direct. If youâre going to rest on the rope for more than 15 seconds, go in direct to the nearest bolt with a quickdraw clipped to your belay loop. This puts your weight on the bolt, instead of your partnerâs device, giving her a break. Do not have your belayer take you off belay.
yea that's what people don't understand. PUll ups don't matter as much as finger strength and palm strength. When you are hanging on your arms should be locked straight so the bones are doing the work not your muscles. The real power is in the Hands which Adam has plenty of finger and palm strength to do 9c
Discover and buy the signed climbing AO Photo Book, climbing photographs, landscape prints, portraits and signed postcards by Adam Ondra
Alex said Adam Ondra came in and did it in one month of study. Yes, Adam stood on the âshoulders of giantsâ in that he got to use Tommyâs knowledge. You have to be in the top 1% of climbers to be at these guys level, but Alex and Tommy look at Adam Ondra as the top 1% of the top 1%.
H5TL2lk.